How to cut out the Ribbon Skirt -- Keep the Bias grainline on grain!

Happy New Year!!!

I hope you all had an amazing and safe New Year's Eve celebration.   I had  a wonderful dinner with my husband ... we went to Cavey's for a special New Year's Eve dinner  (yummy) !!!!  ... But, let's get to the important stuff... Let me show you how I cut out the silk fabric to make my skirt.

First, I decided on the length I wanted.   ... A little shorter than the actual pattern.  21 inches is a great length on me because it's just below the knee (very flattering).

I marked the original pattern with the new length by measuring up from the hem all the way across the pattern.  (10 1/2" from the original hem).

Trace a new copy of the front and back pattern pieces. To transfer the shorter length to the copy, I folded up the bottom of the original pattern and dashed in the shorter hem length.

Finally,  transfer the notches and grainline markings.  This pattern is cut out on a SINGLE LAYER of fabric.  It's important to trace the grainline markings onto the wrong side of the pattern pieces so you can align the pattern pieces with the selvage of the fabric when the pieces are flipped.

Here's how to lay out the fabric so that the grain is straight.  If you can, tear an edge crosswise along one cut edge of the fabric.  Snip though the selvage edge of the fabric (about 1 inch from the cut edge)... then see if you can tear the fabric where you snipped.    Generally, fabric will tear along the cross grain.  Then  use the torn edge and the selvage edge to lay out the fabric.

Ideally, use a cutting mat with a grid to lay out the fabric.  Align the torn edge and the selvage edge along the lines on the grid.  Smooth the fabric so that those edges are straight.  Use pattern weights or pins to hold the edges of the fabric even with the lines.  (If you do not have a gridded mat, use the top and side edges of the table you're working on.)  

Here's how to tell if you're positioning the pattern piece on the fabric properly.  Because this skirt is cut out on the "bias", the pattern piece is positioned on diagonally on the fabric.  The grainline printed on the pattern pieces should be parallel to the selvage edge.  Use a ruler to measure the distance between each end of the grainline and the selvage.

I'm going to start with the front pattern piece.  First measure the distance at one end of the grainline and the selvage.    (For example, when I checked my pattern piece, the top end of the grainline measured 10 1/2" from the selvage edge of the fabric.)   Anchor the pattern piece at the top of the grain line with a pin.  Then measure the bottom end of the grainline.  If the measurement is not the same--pivot the pattern piece until the bottom end is the same distance from the selvage as the top end.   Use pattern weights to hold the pattern piece in place.

When the grainline is parallel to the selvage, cut out the pattern piece.  I like to use a rotary cutter to cut out the pieces because I get a much smoother edge than when I use scissors.

After you cut out the left front, flip the pattern piece and cut out the right front.  Notice how the second piece is positioned on the fabric diagonally opposite from the first.  Take a minute to make sure that the grainline is parallel to the selvage edge.

After you've cut out the left and right front pieces, cut out the back pieces.

Pin the front pieces right sides together, aligning the center front edges.  Pin the back pieces right sides together, aligning the center back edges.

I like to pin a "B" and and "F" at the center back/front so I can tell which is which.  Now the skirt pieces are ready to sew together.  Stay tuned for Part II -- How to construct the Ribbon Skirt!