How to do a Small Bust Adjustment -- "A-Cup" the Pattern

Hey all,  every now and then I get a question about taking in or reducing the size of the Top pattern.  The answer is a reverse FBA of sorts.  By taking out some of the paper in the bust area of the pattern, you get a closer fit with a smaller bust dart.  It's a really easy adjustment, here's how to do it.

1.  I like to trace a copy of the pattern pieces onto heavier pattern paper. (Much easier to work with than the tissue paper.)  Transfer the markings onto your copies.  Here is the front bodice piece for View B of the Top with Two Collars and a Peplum.  (This adjustment will work with any top pattern that has a bust dart.)

2.  Use the clear plastic ruler to draw two lines.  The first line is a horizontal line from the tip of the bust dart to the center front of the pattern.  Make sure your line is parallel to the floor (or perpendicular to the grainline).  The second line is marked from the tip of the bust dart to the notch in the front armhole.  Place a piece of clear tape over the end of the line at the armhole. 

3.  Cut out the bust dart.

4.  Slash the pattern along the horizontal line from the dart tip to the center front of the pattern piece.  Slash the second line from the dart tip to an 1/8" from the edge of the armhole, creating a hinge.

5.  Overlap the upper section of the front bodice over the lower section 3/8".  Make sure that the vertical center front edges of the pattern pieces are even and straight on grain.  Tape the overlapped section in place.  Overlap the second slash 3/8" where it intersects the first line.  (Essentially you are creating an overlap that's shaped like a dart.  Simply swing the pattern piece at the side seam in toward the center 3/8".  Make sure the hinge at the armhole stays intact.  Tape the overlapped paper in place.

Notice that you've removed some of the paper in the bust area of the pattern.  The bust dart is also smaller.  Fill the dart with paper and redraw the dart legs.  If the pattern piece is still too big, you can do this adjustment again... or increase the overlap to 5/8".

Hope this is helpful....  Questions?  Shoot me an email.