How to Raise the Rise on your Jeans Pattern

Hi ... I know it's past my bedtime, but I promised that I would get this up today (I still have 1 hour!!)  Let me show you how easy it is to get the waistband on your jeans (or pant) pattern to sit where you want it.

First, if you want raise both the front and back equally, here's how to do it.    (Note,  someone asked a really good question about why I slash and spread the front leg vs. just adding the extra at the top of the back leg.  Here's why I do it this way.  If you add the extra length to the top of the front leg, you will be changing the shape of the front pocket opening.  So, after adjusting the front leg, you will also have to adjust 5 additional pattern pieces--the front pocket bag, the front pocket facing, the denim facing and the right and left front fly pieces.  If you slash and add the extra length under the front pocket opening, you only have to adjust 2 additional pieces--the right and left front fly pieces.)  (If you have a way to make an adjustment that works for you and you like it...go with that, it's not wrong! There are lots of ways to make an adjustment, I'm just showing you 1 way : < )

 

Working with the front leg pattern piece, slash pattern on the lengthen/shorten line and spread the pattern the amount you want to raise the waistband. If you're not using my pattern, make sure that you are slashing your pattern through the zipper.  If you slash under the zipper, you will add length to the torso portion of the pattern, but the fly zipper will stop in the middle of your belly, instead of a little lower where it should....(I think that looks funny!)

You will also most likely need to take in the side seams a little. You can do that adjustment in the fabric when you make your test muslin.

 

In the back, you can add the extra right at the top of the back leg.  (Because there isn't anything in the way.  Again, you'll probably need to take the side seams in a little--But wait until you've sewn the yoke on because you can take them both in a little at the side seams (you can also take the back crotch seam in a little too).   If you are doing a muslin, check for gap in the back yoke/waistband.  Determine how much you need to remove and dart it out of the paper pattern pieces before you cut out the denim.

If you want to add more height to the CF and CB and a little less to the side seams you can do it using the method shown below,  just make sure the amount you add to the front side seam matches the amount you add to the back side seam (so they sew together right!)   (You will slash right through the side edges instead of making a hinge)

If you need to  hike the rise up in the front or the back, it's a little more work, but still easy to do.

To add to the front rise...  First determine how much you need to add.  For example, let's say that you need an extra 1 1/2".  The maximum that I would spread any one slash is 1/2" wide.  So, to hike the front rise up 1 1/2" first draw three parallel lines (equally spaced) through the zipper section of the front leg.  Slash each line starting at the CF, cut right through the zipper seam allowance and stop 1/2" from the side edge.   Put a piece of scotch tape along the seam allowance to reinforce the tissue.  Clip in toward the end of the slash to create a hinge at the side edge.  With pattern paper under the tissue, spread each slash 1/2", tape in place.  True up the zipper seam allowance.  Smooth out the side edge at the hip if necessary.

To add to the back rise, simply add the length you need at the CB (extending the back crotch length).  Draw a straight line from the top of the back crotch seam down to the side seam.  (Again, I would check for gap in the yoke/waistband and adjust the paper pattern pieces before cutting out the denim.)

Remember to add length to both the front fly pieces so they match the new length of the zipper seam allowance!   

I hope that's clear...if not, shoot me an email.  Nite nite!